Sunday, September 29, 2013

Istria - interior and east coast

Today we ventured inland in Istria. Our hope was to see the gaping chasm, in Pazim, Croatia, that inspired Jules Verne. We informed Nuvi of our desire and set off. Before long we realised that Nuvi was taking the most direct route which involved minor roads (in some cases very minor, in other cases tracks). The scenery was wonderful (or would have been if the rain hadn't started. It seems we were in a Slovenian Karst region - Podgorski Kras. We travelled upwards into the Karst along a winding single car road. I asked Jim "Are you beginning to regret this?" and he said, not surprisingly, "A bit". There was little traffic which was a relief but when we were going through some villages the entry between walls appeared barely to hold a car. I'm sure the locals were wondering why an Irish car was invading their area. Initially Nuvi told us that the journey to Pazin was 70 km which Jim had reckoned would take an hour. An hour later we still had 58 km to travel. Despite the weather and the road conditions we continued on our way treating the experience as another episode in Kings' Adventures. I was fascinated by the smallholdings all of which had gardens about half the size of our own and all of which had rows of healthy vegetables. There were even some vines. As we went higher habitation and cultivation ceased. The clouds wraithed the Karst creating a very atmospheric scene. However, road conditions were not conducive to taking pictures. We were wondering how long it was going to take us the get to the Slovenian-Croatian border when there we were!  There was a frontier hut and a barrier across the road. Up to this we were used to a more formal type of crossing. We stopped and waited for the official who took a minute or so to scrutinise the registration of our car. Then he approached my outstretched passport-laden laden hand shaking his head. "These documents do not entitle you to cross the border here at Rakitovec". I was rather taken aback as I could not think what other documents I would need in an EU country. "This is a local crossing and you need special documents to cross here." So, what to do? We were attempting to use an unauthorised crossing and we were not even smuggling, carrying arms or drugs! Fortunately by now his severe demeanour had mellowed and he told us to go back 2-3 km, turn left over the railway to Movraz, keep to the right of the valley and go Gracisce from where we could join the 208 for the legal crossing at Socerga. That was not quite as easy to do as he thought but after several u turns we got to the 208, having added at least another 20 km to our journey, and crossed at an authorised crossing where our passports were perfectly acceptable.

The weather now took a turn for the worse and we found ourselves in deep fog. At least the road had 2 lanes so we kept close to the right. We had missed our morning coffee (and penny spending) and were in need of some Kuna to purchase same so, on arrival at Buzet (to which we should have directed Nuvi in the first place) we pulled in at a coffee house which was also close to an ATM. Relief all round!

A mural beside our coffee stop in Buzet. I think it's great!
Back in the car we were much firmer with Nuvi, not allowing her to lead us into such dangerous conditions again. We directed her to take us from Buzet to Lupoglav on the 44 and then to Pazin on the A8. Not as scenic maybe but we wouldn't have seen the scenery anyway because it was raining so heavily. At Pazin we had a bit of searching for the castle from which we would see Jules Verne's chasm and were about to do as he actually did - content ourselves with photos - when we discovered a bus disgorging its passengers and rightly assumed that they were on the same mission as ourselves. (Jules Verne never visited Pazin but was inspired by photos.) The rain eased enough for us to take a look in comfort and, that need satisfied, we went towards the east coast of Istria.


























The chasm!




















Entrance to the museum.



Nerina Feresini - an author born in Pazin















We were heading for Labin which is described as the jewel in the crown of the east coast. We were starving as by now it was 2.30 so Jim stopped at a roadside Inn where we were the only customers. We had a lovely meal in splendid isolation! We gave up on Labin and turned up the coast where, at Brsc, we took some photos of the Island of Cres which was shrouded in clouds.






The trip along the coast would have been great if we had better weather but we still enjoyed as much of the views as we could see. Then we made our way to Opatija. The rain continued to pour so we continued our journey, this time back to Trieste. Just after we crossed the border into Slovenia, we had pulled up to check if a currency exchange was open, when a car pulled up alongside enquiring what we were doing so far from Donegal. The man had a Northern Irish accent but claimed to be from Ardara. We had a quick chat, discovering that he and his 4 passengers were staying in Isola.

All in all, quite an adventure and probably the best way to spend a rainy day. We can't complain about the weather as yesterday and today were the only days with rain. It's to rain again tomorrow and then pick up again.

Jim was wondering that if you spent your holidays in Europe would you be incontinent?

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