Monday, September 24, 2012

Forcalquier

According to the literature, the Monday market in Forcalquier is the biggest and best around. As today was our last chance to experience it, off we went to Forcalquier. The weather forecast was for thunderstorms and rain and as we were making our way to the car, large drops of rain were falling in La Motte d'Aigues. It wasn't long after we got on our way that the really heavy rain started to fall and, for the 45 minute journey, the sky was dark except for the double flashes of lightning that lit up the clouds and caused the rain to redouble its intensity. We wondered what effect the weather would have on the market but assumed that they had had weather like this before. We reached the town, parked, put on our raincoats and the rain stopped! When we reached the market, we could see lots of stalls, some a bit bedraggled and most just dripping with rain. It looked promising so we decided to fortify ourselves with our morning coffee. In the space of the 10 minutes that took, quite a few of the stalls had packed up and were getting on their way home - the cheek! However, we had a look at what remained, bought a goat's cheese from Banon (as I had planned) and bought some herbes de Provence (again I had planned to do this). So, while the market was far from advertised, I actually got the things I wanted!



The fish stall was really good but I didn't have the wherewithal to transport fish properly while we were touring about. What might have started out smelling sweet might have developed an unpleasant whiff!
Baskets, lavender and herbes de Provence stall.

We spoke to the organ grinder because there was no monkey about!

Handmade baskets and bags.




Notre Dame du Bourget, a major monument in Forcalquier, dates back to 1155.
Fountain of Saint Michel

After lunch in Forcalquier, we decided to do a tour of the area. Just out of Forcalquier on a narrow winding road is an area in sub-tropical surroundings called Les Mourres. Here there is a landscape of rocks in the shape of heads, mushrooms, arches and bridges. From there there is a view of the Durance and the Valensole Plateau. I think those are the Alps of Haute Provence in the background.

A view of Forcalquier, poerched on its hill in the distance. crowned by its citadel










To really see the rock formations, we had to park the car and do some of the walking trail - I could have done with my hiking stick!





Jim was fascinated by these berries growing in the area. We didn't try to taste, just in case!



As you can see, the weather had improved greatly. It was around 25 degrees.



We stopped off in a village called Cruis which is one of Villages & Cites de Caractere. On the village square there once was an Abbey. The courtyard of the cloister, where you can still see the tomb niches, has been restored. This fountain is just beside where we parked.
The courtyard of the cloister with its tomb niches.

Sundial on wall of cloister. We were there at 1.30 so it must be right! St. Martin Church, Cruis











Representing the 4 Evangelists



This is the Church of Saint Martin which houses a mysterious 6th century sculpted stone, a gilt wood altar-piece dating back to the 17th century and historical monument-listed santons (crib figurines). I was really looking forward to seeing the santons but... it's closed on Mondays!
The Priest's house next door (I think!)

 On our circular route from Forcalquier we planned to visit  the Priory of Ganagobie which was built towards the middle of the 10th century on a vast plateau planted with holm oaks. The 13th century Church is all that can be visited as the buildings and the cloister are occupied at present by a community of Benedictine monks. The road there was narrow and full of hairpin bends. On one side was a ravine and on the other side a deep ditch! I held my breath so as not to distract Jim from his driving. We got there safely! This is the view of the Durance from the car park. After all that, the notice said the Abbey was closed on a Monday. Not again!




Anyway, we walked the 500 metres uphill to the Church to take a photo of its facade and doorway which is very beautifully decorated.





Jim took a closer photo to check the detail. Then we pushed the door of the closed Church ... to discover that somebody had forgotten that it was Monday and ... the Church was open!








3 views of the cloister at Ganogobie Abbey.


A picture of the Romanesque mosaics in the apse of the Church - very beautiful and in good condition.


Beautiful avenue of plane trees on the way out of Mane.

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