Istria - interior and east coast

Today we ventured inland in Istria. Our hope was to see the gaping chasm, in Pazim, Croatia, that inspired Jules Verne. We informed Nuvi of our desire and set off. Before long we realised that Nuvi was taking the most direct route which involved minor roads (in some cases very minor, in other cases tracks). The scenery was wonderful (or would have been if the rain hadn't started. It seems we were in a Slovenian Karst region - Podgorski Kras. We travelled upwards into the Karst along a winding single car road. I asked Jim "Are you beginning to regret this?" and he said, not surprisingly, "A bit". There was little traffic which was a relief but when we were going through some villages the entry between walls appeared barely to hold a car. I'm sure the locals were wondering why an Irish car was invading their area. Initially Nuvi told us that the journey to Pazin was 70 km which Jim had reckoned would take an hour. An hour later we still had 58 km to travel. Despite the weather and the road conditions we continued on our way treating the experience as another episode in Kings' Adventures. I was fascinated by the smallholdings all of which had gardens about half the size of our own and all of which had rows of healthy vegetables. There were even some vines. As we went higher habitation and cultivation ceased. The clouds wraithed the Karst creating a very atmospheric scene. However, road conditions were not conducive to taking pictures. We were wondering how long it was going to take us the get to the Slovenian-Croatian border when there we were!  There was a frontier hut and a barrier across the road. Up to this we were used to a more formal type of crossing. We stopped and waited for the official who took a minute or so to scrutinise the registration of our car. Then he approached my outstretched passport-laden laden hand shaking his head. "These documents do not entitle you to cross the border here at Rakitovec". I was rather taken aback as I could not think what other documents I would need in an EU country. "This is a local crossing and you need special documents to cross here." So, what to do? We were attempting to use an unauthorised crossing and we were not even smuggling, carrying arms or drugs! Fortunately by now his severe demeanour had mellowed and he told us to go back 2-3 km, turn left over the railway to Movraz, keep to the right of the valley and go Gracisce from where we could join the 208 for the legal crossing at Socerga. That was not quite as easy to do as he thought but after several u turns we got to the 208, having added at least another 20 km to our journey, and crossed at an authorised crossing where our passports were perfectly acceptable.

The weather now took a turn for the worse and we found ourselves in deep fog. At least the road had 2 lanes so we kept close to the right. We had missed our morning coffee (and penny spending) and were in need of some Kuna to purchase same so, on arrival at Buzet (to which we should have directed Nuvi in the first place) we pulled in at a coffee house which was also close to an ATM. Relief all round!

A mural beside our coffee stop in Buzet. I think it's great!

Back in the car we were much firmer with Nuvi, not allowing her to lead us into such dangerous conditions again. We directed her to take us from Buzet to Lupoglav on the 44 and then to Pazin on the A8. Not as scenic maybe but we wouldn't have seen the scenery anyway because it was raining so heavily. At Pazin we had a bit of searching for the castle from which we would see Jules Verne's chasm and were about to do as he actually did - content ourselves with photos - when we discovered a bus disgorging its passengers and rightly assumed that they were on the same mission as ourselves. (Jules Verne never visited Pazin but was inspired by photos.) The rain eased enough for us to take a look in comfort and, that need satisfied, we went towards the east coast of Istria.

The chasm!

Entrance to the museum.

Nerina Feresini - an author born in Pazin

We were heading for Labin which is described as the jewel in the crown of the east coast. We were starving as by now it was 2.30 so Jim stopped at a roadside Inn where we were the only customers. We had a lovely meal in splendid isolation! We gave up on Labin and turned up the coast where, at Brsc, we took some photos of the Island of Cres which was shrouded in clouds.

The trip along the coast would have been great if we had better weather but we still enjoyed as much of the views as we could see. Then we made our way to Opatija. The rain continued to pour so we continued our journey, this time back to Trieste. Just after we crossed the border into Slovenia, we had pulled up to check if a currency exchange was open, when a car pulled up alongside enquiring what we were doing so far from Donegal. The man had a Northern Irish accent but claimed to be from Ardara. We had a quick chat, discovering that he and his 4 passengers were staying in Isola.

All in all, quite an adventure and probably the best way to spend a rainy day. We can't complain about the weather as yesterday and today were the only days with rain. It's to rain again tomorrow and then pick up again.

Jim was wondering that if you spent your holidays in Europe would you be incontinent?

Grado, Aquileia and Palmanova

Today we took the high road to Grado. And a high road it was! It's the Via Di Friuli I think. It wound up and up into the Karst region and the views of Trieste and the bay are spectacular, even on an overcast day. Grado is a historic seaside resort with lots of Roman and medieval remains. It is located on a peninsula of the Adriatic Sea between Venice and Trieste. Again we had difficulty in parking and had to cross the bridge into Isola Della Schiusa but that wasn't really a problem.

We visited several more churches. Mass was on in the Basilica of Sant'Eufema so we did not want to intrude.

The Basilica of Sant'Eufemia

On the top of the bell tower there is a wind vane statue of the Anzolo San Michele (St Michael, the Archangel).

Beside the Basilica is the Baptistry. Along the paved path towards it there are 3 sarcophagi of the 2nd - 3rd century A.D. The Baptistry is very nice.

An interesting building in the square

Right next to Sant'Eufemia is the Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the oldest church in Grado.

As we were wandering about we could feel drops of rain and the sky was looking ominous. By chance we were near a restaurant whose terrace was well covered so we decided to stop there to eat. We had just ordered when there came a torrential downpour so loud we could not hear ourselves speak. In seconds the streets were cleared as people took shelter in nearby shops and restaurants. It took most of lunchtime for the rain to ease and drops were still falling as we made our way back to the car.

Now I need a rant! I know that I have no sense of direction, I admit it, I even join in on the laughter of others about it. Jim claims to have a great sense of direction and "follows his nose". Jim's nose is totally unreliable, believe me! I discovered that many many years ago when we visited Prague for a weekend and Jim dragged me for miles, miles away from the sights to be seen. In fact, I was a sight to be seen at the end when I finally convinced him that we were going in the wrong direction. I was a sight to be seen again today! Having left the restaurant, the rain was beginning again so we decided to get back to the car and take to the road again. Jim was following his nose as usual. I was trying to use some logic and in my head was shouting "That's the wrong way". However, I always bow to his superior knowledge of direction (why I don't know, as experience has taught me that we will get where we want to go but only by the most circuitous route possible!). Almost one hour later, soaked to the skin, hair frizzy and temper very very frayed, not to talk of my poor foot which complained painfully we reached the car. Picture (and not a very attractive one) and no sound for most of the rest of the journey. Safer you know!!

We had intended stopping at Aquileia but weather did not permit and we continued to Palmanova, a fortified town constructed in a star shape. Its main square, Piazza Grande, is hexagonal and huge. And what was there today? A horrendous cacophanous funfair which offended the eye and ear. We entered the town via one of the gates  (Porta Aquileia I think) - there are three.

The Piazza Grande

is overlooked by the town's most important monuments, above all the 17th century Cathedral. Its facade  has many niches in which there are statues.

We also passed through Clauiano, said to be one of Italy's most beautiful towns, and Aiello del Friuli which has more than 60 sundials of different types. We saw a few but the photographer was driving!

Food Festival Gorizia

Having had a poor night's sleep (this place is awfully noisy except for about 3 hours during the night!) I decided that Friday 27th September would be a do nothing day - the first of our holiday. We stayed in bed late, sorted the washing and then set off to find the big COOP supermarket we had found the other day. Somehow, once we were on the road, we took the turning for Gorizia, hoping we would be luckier this time and find parking. We circled the centre of town for about half an hour and finally found a spot not too far from the centre where there was a food festival. That suited us down to the ground! Unfortunately, Jim forgot to take his camera from the car so the only photo we have is the one I took with my phone.

Just thinking - Carol might like to have her wedding here!

We had lunch at one of the many food stalls and wandered about, Jim sampling all that was on offer at the stalls. There was lots of Balkan food: Slovenia, Serbia, Bosnia ; Hispanic: Argentina, Brazil, Mexico; Italian from all areas of Italy; French; German. We were most interested in the Balkan as that is newest to us. I bought some pesto from Liguria and some cheese spread and thin crispy bread from Sardinia.

Our quiet day turned out to be almost as active as all the other days. We might return to Gorizia when the festival is over and do the touristy bit.

Hooray! We are up to date!!

Attempt at Opicina and day in Pula

Today, Thursday, we decided to go to Opicina and park at the Obelisk and make an attempt at the 4km scenic walk along the Karst as far as Prosecco. Seemingly it's a lovely walk. However, the morning was very overcast and, when we could get no parking at the obelisk, we decided to head for Pula at the bottom tip of Istria. The last day when we were doing Croatian Istria we had not enough time to go to Pula. This time we were mainly on motorway so the journey was quicker than the coast route.

We knew to expect a remarkably well-preserved Roman amphitheatre but were wowed at our first glimpse. We had a great view from where we parked our car. We got ourselves some Kuna to get into the amphitheatre but went to fortify ourselves first with lunch. The restaurant didn't take cards and we had not withdrawn enough Kuna so we experienced the less than generous exchange rate for euro. Never mind - lunch was good and we were ready to explore the town.

Old Town Hall

Temple of Augustus

Roman Floor Mosaic

Chapel of St. Mary of Formosa

Triumphal Arch of Sergius

Getting ready for a performance or Mass or something

When we hadn't made Pula thye day we were doing the Croatian Istrian Coast, Jim had said we could give Pula a miss. We were really glad we didn't!