Duino Castle and osmizza

On our first day in Trieste with Gloria and Piero and Domiziana all three had mentioned Osmize. Osmiza is a jealously guarded tradition in the Karst region around Trieste. In 1784 an Imperial Decree signed by Joseph II authorised farmers of the Carso to sell wine, fruit and other food products they produced to visitors and passers-by for a period of eight days or multiples of eight days throughout the year, without any restriction as to opening times and prices. The only condition was that the point of sale be marked by a leafy branch placed in full view at the roadside and on the house of the seller. The penalty for not observing that condition was confiscation of all wares.

It is from this imperial privilege that the name osmiza comes. This is because the Slovenian word "osmica" means an eighth, and "osem" means eight. Eight was also the number of days it takes the branch to dry. Thus "osmiza", "osmizza" and "osmice", three different spellings that originate from the Central European mixture present in the Trieste area, but all with the same meaning: a place that is part of the way of life for those living on the Carso and in Trieste, where it is possible to enjoy the genuine nature of the local people and the fruits of their land.

At the Tourist Office the girl had given us the names of 2 towns where Osmize were available at the moment - Malchina and Ceroglie. We noticed that it would be possible to visit Duino Castle the same day so Duino and Osmiza was the plan for Monday September 23.

Duino Castle is a 14th century fortification located in Duino, near Trieste on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Trieste. The ruins of an older castle built in the 11th century are located in the grounds. In the 19th century it became one of two residences for Prince Alexander van Thurn und Taxis and his wife Princess Marie of the Czech branch of the Thurn und Taxis. Today the castle remains property of the Thurn und Taxis family and is owned by their great-grandson. We had our first semi-decent coffee in the Bar here - it was hot and large (as in a breakfast cup!).

It is in a spectacular setting and we enjoyed our tour of the grounds and the three floors that are open to visitors. There are exhibition of lots of violins and cellos and their various heads and bows and there is a grand piano that was once played by Liszt (in the far right).

Limestone cliffs seen from Duino Castle

On the way to the bunker

During World War II the castle was used by the Germans who constructed a bunker in the rocks next to the castle to defend the nearby naval base of Sistiana against a possible Allied attack. I had descended about a third of the way when my foot signalled that the return journey could be painful. Jim showed me this photograph later!




Back in Duino and heading for the car park we saw this:

We then headed for Malchino in the countryside and partook of an osmiza - local red and white wine (to be honest, not really to our taste but ok with the food), good bread, a selection of dried and cured meats (the salami was really nice), cooked ham sprinkled with grated horseradish (loved the horseradish) and cooked rashers from fresh pork (really nice). There was enough for four and, sadly, we demolished it all. It cost 18 euro only! 

The leafy branch indicating an osmiza

Pomegranates in a tree nearby.

We then made an attempt to visit Gorizia and Nova Gorica (where there had been a wall like the Berlin Wall) but in vain. Lots of roads were closed due to some activity about to begin so we gave up and headed home finding a good supermarket on the way where we were able to buy a few things to keep stocks up.