Sunday, September 30, 2012

Les Baux de Provence

We decided yesterday, after our visit to the market in Apt, that we had seen all we were going to see in Provence. However, when we got up and saw that the weather was very pleasant despite a forecast of thundery showers, we were itching to go someplace. A quick discussion and we settled for Les Baux. And what a trip - it was a bit like leaving the good wine till last.


The journey to Les Baux took us through the Alpilles (the Little Alps), a small range of mountains between Avignon and Arles. This mountain range is very different to the Luberon which seems to be covered in forest and shrubs and which could be described as undulating. Les Alpilles on the other hand have jagged limestone peaks which are very attractive. En route there were apple trees, vineyards and lots of olive groves where the olives shone green on the olive trees - yes, the sun was shining!


It was a really beautiful drive eventhough Jim had some twisty parts to manoeuvre. Actually, I think we came on this road by accident. At one stage, Jim did not follow Nuvi's instructions and she had to recalculate and came up with a route that she knew we would enjoy!




While Jim concentrated on one task - driving - and Nuvi concentrated on recalculating after Jim refused to obey, I was in octopus mode - holding Nuvi, balancing the map, finding, opening and supplying liquid refreshment, taking photos, digging my feet in for balance as we rounded some of the bends and texting to Evy. I think I am an excellent example of a woman who can multi-task!

Some olive trees with their bright green olives.


Coming in to Les Baux.

Where we parked.







This is the view from the terrace where we had lunch in wonderful sunshine. We thought we had seen the last of the sun so we lapped it up, knowing that it will be quite a while before we have sunshine again!



An exhibition of photos of Princess Grace and Prince Rainier.



Front of St. Vincent's Church.

A side Altar.

La Chapelle des Penitents Blancs.


The Chapel was built in the middle of the 17th century by the White Penitents. Inside the Chapel is decorated with frescos painted by Yves Brayer in 1974. They represent the Shepherds' Christmas in the Provencal tradition.



Yves Brayer Museum.

A sweet shop.



Cute!




The Santon Museum.



Some views of houses built into the rocks.


At about 2.30 p.m. the sky was beginning to darken and we knew we had got the best of the day and that rain was imminent. We headed for the car. We had reached the exit when we realised that we should have paid up at the village before going back to the car. There was a car behind us whose driver was not in the mood to be indulgent! I got out of the car and asked where the pay machine was. He just made a rude gesture of exasperation and muttered something. I said "Pardon Monsieur, je n'ai pas compris," hoping that the fact that I wasn't French might awaken his sympathies. Another grunt! His female companion explained that it was up at the village and that it was quite a walk! She asked us to pull over so that they could pass. We did but were now not in a recognised parking place so Jim had to stay in the car while I trudged uphill to search for the machine. I then took a wrong turning on my way down and had to make my way up again to find the correct route. My lungs were fit to burst and all the time I was uttering obscenities (not audible) about the impatience and lack of human concern of French drivers! Our embarrassment was eased however when we saw another car in the same predicament. He was more fortunate than us as a gendarme arrived, took his money and opened the barrier!

I was no sooner back in the car than the rain started - how lucky was that!

Saturday market in Apt

Apt is a town known for its fruits confits. Fruits confits are fruits preserved in a sugar syrup. They are different to glace fruits where fruits confits are taken a few stages further. The fruits confits are allowed to dry and then glazed with sugar. I had bought some fruits confits in Aigues-Mortes in the Camargue and had fallen in love with them so I was determined to get some in Apt to take home with me. Every Saturday morning there is a market in Apt so we decided to do one final Provencal market. The forecast was for thunder and lightning and stormy showers and indeed it was trying to rain as we left the house. However, we were very fortunate as the rain stayed off for our couple of hours in the town whose narrow streets were lined with stalls and filled with people (and dogs! - I don't care what Evy says, I have no intention of aiming French dogs whose owners turn a blind eye to them fouling the streets!).

Jim's favourite stall again - saucisson. And there are many saucisson
stalls in markets. Jim eats his way through them!

Wild mushrooms.

A huge variety of mushrooms.

Suckling pig, boned and rolled and cooked with head on. Jim was absolutely drooling!

Fountain not too happy to be surrounded by stalls.

Matching fountain no more comfortable!

Street entertainment.

I thought I was back in Canada!

A street view in Apt.

















Having visited all the sweet shops I could find in Apt, we returned to the first one and I made my purchase. Jim has forbidden me to touch the fruits confits but, it's tempting!