Kings adventures

We had planned Florence for Monday as the weather conditions seemed to be best this week. Of course we had not realised that most of the museums and art galleries were closed on a Monday. However, we only had one day and it took us all our time to see as many of the sights as we could. We started early taking the twisty road that heads from Montieri to Siena. The piercingly blinding early morning sun and patches of thick fog were a challenge on such roads and it took all Jim’s skills to keep us from going off the side of the road and hurtling downhill. We arrived safely thank Jim and following Nuvi’s directions were almost embarking on taking routes that were restricted only allowing authorised vehicles. Any idiot would have known that a car with an Irish registration was unlikely to be authorised! Our route then became a challenge to Nuvi as we consistently refused to take the restricted roads. She was becoming addled with recalculating and at one stage could only manage “Please drive to highlighted route”. There was no highlighted route! Fortunately we knew we were heading for the parking at the station in Piazza Stazione and at intervals there were signs indicating the way. Nuvi showed no gratitude at all but continued recalculating in exasperation. I am certain I heard a sigh of relief as we entered the carpark!

As in all big cities of our adventures, first stop is Tourist Office (just across from the station) and next is the hop on hop off bus. It was excellent timing and we were ensconced upstairs in the open top bus within 5 minutes. As in Trieste, we were less than enamoured with the tour but I did learn why I had been finding Italian bread rather bland - there is no salt in it! The bus skirted the outside of the main sights in Florence and brought us up to Fiesole. It was chilly to start with and the wind was ensuring that it would be a really bad hair day. It became almost icy as we made our way to the top of the hill where Fiesole is situated. This was the first day where we sought our coats for warmth rather than as protection from rain. They soon became necessary for rain too just as we reached Fiesole. Fortunately a café provided shelter and a welcome cup of coffee. We didn’t visit the Roman theatre on the Fiesole archaeological site.

A selection of the photos taken from the bus.

Right - Ponte D. Vittoria in the distance

The south gate through which Nuvi insisted we should go this morning. We knew better!

Piazzale Michelangelo with a replica of the statue of David. Jim tells me that on his grand tour during his youth he stayed in a campsite just below this.

Fiesole up on the hill shrouded in mist which was, in fact, rain!

On the way down we stayed downstairs because of the rain and a good thing too as I noticed water flowing down the stairs of the bus. Jim’s photos are rainspattered.

By the time we reached the final stop the rain had ceased and we were able to tour the city in comfort but still coated for the cold. My first view of the Duomo - Basilica Santa Maria del Fiore - reminded me that I had told Jim I didn’t mind if we didn’t go to Florence! I would certainly not have wanted to miss this beautiful building. It dominates the city with its enormous dome and my words could never describe its striking façade.

The bronze doors are a kind of large scale illustrated bible. There was a huge queue to get into the Duomo and the Baptistery - I’m not a great queue person. We got in later though but it is not as impressive as outside.

The campanile was designed by Giotto. Unfortunately, during this trip I have not been able to climb towers or campaniles because of my foot.

Not a very good photo of the Pieta.

The great cupola is decorated with a fresco of the Last Judgement by Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari (1572-1579) The statues are probably by famous sculptors but I couldn’t see evidence of that.

We had our lunch in Piazza della Republica

Jim got a finger wagged at him for taking photos in Orsanmichele which was originally a grain market but was turned into a church. The people who worked here were obviously chosen for their forbidding demeanour for everyone bore a scowl and had a finger permanently ready to wag at offenders!

The Piazza della Signoria is very impressive - an outdoor sculpture gallery. The statues, some copies, commemorate major events in the city’s history.

Palazzo Vecchio

The Neptune Fountain. Ammannati’s Mannerist Fountain (1575) of the Roman sea god surrounded by water nymphs commemorates naval victories.

Grand Duke Cosimo 1. Giambologna’s equestrian statue (1595) celebrates the man who subjugated all Tuscany under his military rule.

The statue of David. The original of Michelangel’s was moved from its initial location in the Piazza della Signoria into the Accademia in 1873 to protect it from weather and pollution.

Most of these are in the Loggia dei Lanzi (1382) named after Cosimo 1’s bodyguards, the Lancers. It is also known as the Loggia di Orcagna, after the architect.

Perseus. Cellini’s bronze statue (1554) of Perseus holding Medus’a head was meant to warn Cisimo 1’s enemies of their probable fate. The original of the base it rests on is in the Bargello.

The Rape of the Sabine Women (1583). The writhing figures in Giambologna’s famous statue were carved from a single block of flawed marble. (Isn’t it great to have guide books to tell you all these things!)

The Marzocco is a copy. The original of Donatello’s heraldic lion is in the Bargello.

Just down from the Palazzo Vecchio there were other “statues”:

En route to the Arno to see the Ponte Vecchio.

The Ponte Vecchio is the oldest and most famous bridge in Florence. It was built in 1345 by Neri di Fioravente on a previous structure first mentioned in 996. It was also the only bridge in Florence not to be destroyed when the German army retreated in August 1944. It is built on three arches and lined with mainly jewellery shops obviously horrendously expensive. Prices did not appear beside the items in most of the shops.

92789283, 9284 - views from the Ponte Vecchio

Having crossed the bridge we continued to the Palazzo Pitti in the south of the city. Seemingly this was where people who did not have sufficient wealth to build a palazzo lived. That stigma existed until the Medici Grand Dukes moved there in 1550. The Palazzo Pitti became the base from which Tuscany was ruled for the next 300 years.

Today this area is mainly quiet and full of artisan workshops and antique shops. The Boboli Gardens was built as the private garden to the Palazzo Pitti. I dearly wanted to see them but we were running short of time as Jim wanted to get home before dark. It is full of classical sculptures which would have been lovely to see.

The exit from the Boboli Gardens as we sneaked a peek and braved the wrath of an attendant who wagged her finger menacingly at us. I wonder do Florentians/Florentines (they’re a biscuit, like Garibaldi) take courses in finger-wagging because they are very good at it!