It is Carol's 40th birthday this year, so, as has become traditional for us, a celebration was required. Jim's 70th was in Athlone; Brian's 40th in Westport followed by Flaggy shore in Co. Clare; my 70th was based at home with meal and overnight in Glen and meal in Harvey's Point. Carol's location of choice was somewhere in Cork because she had enjoyed a home exchange in Clonakilty a good few years ago. So I was despatched to scour Homelink for a suitable exchange. Having no luck I turned to Airbnb to discover that a house which would accommodate the 6 of us would cost around 2,000 euros for a week. So renewed attempts at Homelink were required! Finally I got a positive response from Domhain Eile in Castletownbere and I set up a 2 week exchange for end of May beginning of June. Carol and Stephen and Brian and Mairead would join us for the second week.
As the journey from Raphoe to Castletownbere is too much for one day, we set off on May 28th for an overnight in Kilrush where, I thought, I had booked a room in Zoe Bistro and accommodation. Imagine my consternation on arrival to be told by Greg, with whom I thought I had made the booking, that we had been in contact but I had not finalised the booking. So... what to do? Greg kindly started phoning round but everywhere seemed to be booked out or closed. Finally he suggested a hut. A hut! Very luxurious huts, he said. These huts were a glamping enterprise called Silk Beds in Labasheeda (beds of silk in Irish) about 20 minutes away. We agreed - a new experience after all! Booking, payment and location were all done online and, having made a reservation for dinner in Zoe Bistro, off we went.
On arrival we parked our car in our allocated space, crossed the little wooden bridge and made our way uphill along a gravelled path. All attempts at getting the key from the lockbox failed and contact had to be made with management who sent us downhill again and across the bridge to another hut. After that perilous journey I wanted a seat while Jim located the key. One chair was buckled and the other was quite obviously a birdie portaloo so upright I had to remain. Once inside and after a brief check out of ensuite showerroom the first job was to get connected to the wifi. To access the password I had to unplug the router. Eejit that I am I didn't realise that, to connect, the router had to be plugged in. I was muttering to myself in disgust that I could not find the correct network when the manager arrived at the doorstep full of the joys of Spring. That soon faded as he took a look at my face and received my irate litany of things that had gone wrong. He sorted the wifi and removed the buckled chair and its companion, replacing them with 2 others. Then he proceeded to talk me into a cheerful mood. He was from Falcarragh so that helped. In fact he talked so much I had no option but to dismiss him in order to be ready to get back to Zoe Bistro for dinner.
Our hut - with me in the doorway. Buckled chair on the right.
The bed looked comfortable enough but it had one problem - someone had to sleep on the inside meaning that a trip to the loo during the night, for people as lacking in flexibility and dexterity as we are, could not be made without disturbing the other person. I drew the short straw! When we got to Zoe, Greg's wife was very concerned that we were happy with our accommodation. I explained that we were but were a bit concerned about the bed being against the wall. Despite her broken English she seemed to understand. When we were leaving she thanked us for coming back for dinner and wished me luck climbing on my husband during the night. We contained ourselves till we were in the car where we had a great laugh!
As it happened we managed to synchronise our trips to the loo during the night.
At Zoe Bistro we had a really lovely meal - I had chicken on risotto with a garlic and butterbean emulsion; Jim had the fish. My enjoyment of the evening was enhanced by the fact that Eanna Ni Lamhna, current President of the Tree Council of Ireland, arrived to dine. She is obviously a regular, based on the welcome and easy conversation of the staff with her. I have always been fascinated by this woman and her accent and enthusiasm of speech. She was joined by her husband and son who arrived with pints each, obviouly from another establishment nearby.
Following breakfast of an orange and a croissant, not very exciting but adequate, we set off for the ferry from Killimer to Tarbert and then made our way to Castletownbere.
We were delighted with the location of Domhain Eile, our home exchange house
Bridge to Dinish where I sourced some seafood.
Bere Island and the lighthouse. All there views are from the back of the house.
As it was lunchtime we went back into town to get something to eat. O'Donoghue's seemed the most popular for lunch so we sat outside in the good weather. Then we did some shopping in the local Super Valu which is quite good.
The house had an open plan kitchen diner, an open central area that contained the staircase and had various chairs and chaise longues for enjoying the scenery during inclement weather and a cosy sitting room. It also had a utility room, a downstairs double bedroom and a downstairs toilet and shower. Upstairs were 3 further bedrooms. The master had the best view and had a walk in wardrobe and ensuite shower room. I unpacked immediately and we were at home.
The house from the front and Hitchcock taking a photo of the bog oak natural sculpture
On our first day we did a bit of a drive around the area and went for lunch in the Buddhist Centre. Again good weather so we could eat outside.
On Wednesday we decided to explore Kenmare and find Mulcahy's restaurant where I had booked Carol's birthday meal. The town was easy to explore and we had no difficulty parking and could see we should have no difficulty parking on the night we had booked for the meal. At the market - which was quite limited as regards food stalls, we bought some salami with hazelnuts, some pork rillettes and a mackerel and sun-dried tomato dip. We took a trip to Josie's Lakeview Reataurant in Lauragh Co. Kerry for lunch. It is in a spectacular setting taking in Glanmore Lake and the Caha Mountains. To get there we did part of the Healy Pass.
From other people's conversation we gathered that Josie's is also known for its ice cream
The following day we went to Derreen Gardens which are set on a peninsula at the head of Kilmakillogue Harbour and surrounded by the Caha Mountains. We had a lovely walk there with lovely trees and lovely views.
I thought this looked like an ostrich head up in the tree!
As you can see it is a very beautiful place. We had lunch outdoors - I had a lovely crab salad.
Next day we went to Gleninchaquin Park hoping for a walk suited to my level. The journey there was along a very narrow road and it was certainly off the beaten track. When we got there and had paid I knew the terrain was much too challenging for me. However there was an area near the (almost dry) waterfall that was reasonably ok.
It too is a very beautiful spot. It was only when we returned to Domhain Eile that I realised that there was a picture of the full-flowing waterfull on the sitting room wall!
We returned the way we came to the main road where there were signs for a sculpture garden called Verart so we decided to suss it out. This involved another long trip along very minor roads eventually coming to a gate that I had to open and close again. On we went and finally came to another gate where we were told to ring the bell and someone would be with us in moments. I rang the bell and got back into the car. Moments went by, and more moments and more ... I got out of the car again and rang again, and again, and again. Nobody came. I felt that we weren't going to turn back now having come so far. There were 2 men in the field beside making a sheep pen but they knew nothing about the place. They suggested I ring - I said I did, many times. What they meant was phone ring so I did, having checked online for a contact number. A woman (Vera) answered and said her husband would be out. He arrived, opened the gate and let us in and indicated where to park. He had 2 big dogs with him. I told him I wasn't too keen on dogs so he said he would put them in - he had 7!. We waited while he sorted the dogs and I was thinking, as I surveyed the terrain, that this was a bad bad idea. Anyway he was a real gentleman as he guided us through the garden. Seemingly they bought the land and its disused buildings about 15 years ago and over the years sorted out the farmhouse for their home and a number of other buildings as rentals. The sculpture in the garden are done by Vera and he does all the heavy work.
Vera uses a type of clay that doesn't require being baked in a kiln.
He told us that he used a mixture of yogurt etc to try to get the moss to grow on the old settee but it didn't work and he had to glue it on
This reminds me of Morholt in Oakfield Park but, in fact, he used to call it Prince Charles and it certainly looks like him. He said he doesn't like to disrespect the new king by calling it King Charles!
This is a fabulous garden. Somehow Jim didn't take any photos of an area where they have a sauna. He told us that it was in the most unattractive part of the garden - very boggy. So he planted some tree ferns etc and in a very short time they grey high so now they have their own sort of rain forest.
Brian and Mairead were coming on Saturday 3rd so I had gone to Dinish across the bridge on Friday to get some prawns and crab to have some nice seafood for their dinner. I also made a nice potato and egg salad and a green salad. Can't remember exactly where we went on the 3rd but we have some nice countryside photos of the area.
That night there was a strawberry moon - I had never seen one before
I am very pleased with this photo - yes I took it and it is a lot better than the one Jim took!
During the night I heard a strange bird call. In the morning Jim told me it was a pheasant and then we saw it in the garden:
These are the cows that Jim called real cows - I don't know what he thinks cows in Donegal are!
On Sunday we decided to go to see if the cable car to Dursey Island was working again - not that I was planning to go on it. It wasn't but it was a beautiful day and we strolled about and decided to have some fish and chips from the fish van that had been recommended. I actually went for a buffalo burger. Mairead had haddock, Jim hake and Brian Monkfish. They all declared it was wonderful. We were sitting on benches opposite Dursey and on another bench beside me was a woman in a large apron. She had brought all she needed - plates, vinegar, tartare sauce, salt and pepper, kitchen roll. Obviously a seasoned eater of van fish and chips.
The Pinky House is an Airbnb property
The Pink House is a sanctuary for spiritual and creative research for the Ministry of Maat.
On Monday Brian and Mairead went to visit a friend and then took Mairead's aunt out for dinner. Following that they went to the airport to collect Carol and Stephen.
While they were off on their adventures we went to Bantry to visit Bantry House and Gardens.
Yes - taking photos inside is forbidden but you know Jim!
View of Bantry Bay from Bantry House.
On our way back to Castletownbere we decided to visit the Bamboo Park at Glengarriff. Not only are there many different species of bamboo and ferns and other tropical plants but there are great views of Glengarriff harbour.
Back home and we decided to eat out in Murphy's Restaurant which had been widely recommended. Not a highlight for us. This is the strawberry moon from that night.
It was late when Carol and Stephen arrived which made it a late night.
The following day was agreed to be our at home celebration of Carol's birthday and I had a menu planned so I sent the others off for the day so as to get peace to prepare. It was a full day's work! First of all there was the cake - a chocolate guinness cake. This cake does not require a mixer and I had brought most of the ingredients from home - the fresh things were got locally in SuperValu. A big problem was that I could not get the main oven to work. So I had to use the small oven the temperature of which was not reliable. As a result the cake was burned on top and bottom requiring slices to be removed. However, once it was covered with icing it was fine and must have tasted good as it was demolished in 2 days. The main course was a Persian dish - Tepsi Kebap from Simply by Sabrina Ghayour. This was to be accompanied by Maast o Esfenaj - a spinach and walnut yogurt. I also did a second yogurt dish with raisins. We had it with tortillas. It all worked very well.
While I was slaving at home the other 5 went to Derreen Gardens which they all enjoyed and where they enjoyed the crab salad for lunch.
Ironically there was a chocolate guinness cake there too:
The only photo Jim took during their walk through Derreen Gardens.
The following morning Jim and I went to Kenmare to the market to get more of the treats we had bought the previous week. The others had planned to cross to Bere Island but had not left the house before we got back due to an unexpected crisis at Carol's work. So when crisis was sorted we all went to Dzogchen Centre - the Tibetan Buddhist Retreat Centre on the Beara Peninsula near Allihies. There we had lunch (a lovely almond tart for Jim and me) and a little walk around.
On our way home we took a quick trip to see Dunboy Castle, a ruined 15th century castle, and Puxley Mansion which is being converted to create a new luxury hotel for the area. It is in a lovely location. We could actually see the building from our exchange house.
Back at the house we all had time to prepare for our meal out in Mulcahy's Kenmare - an hour's journey away. I had booked for 7pm but somehow I had forgotten that and we all thought the booking was for 7.30. We were just going into Kenmare when I got a call from the restaurant wondering were we coming. We arrived at about 7.15 so not too bad! I had the chicken chasseur and confit potatoes - it was lovely. Can't remember what the others had but everyone enjoyed it.
The following day, the 8th June, we went to Garinish Island. The ferry left from Glengarriff. En route we saw seal island - lots of seals.
The gardens on Garinish are lovely but not quite as spectacular as I had been led to believe.
Us on Garnish, Sugarloaf Mountain in the background
Our beautiful almost 40 year old daughter!
Our lovely family!
A little friendly robin chose to sit beside me 😄
During one of my little rests in the garden I overheard a conversation between 2 women about a man who had died and, as it turned out, had 3 wives and 3 families. Maybe they were discussing a book but it sounded real.
that evening they all went into town to Mc Carthy's bar while I read my book and prepared the evening meal
This is a photo on the wall in Mc Carthy's and below Mairead adopting the same pose in similar clothes.
Pete Mc Carthy as in cover of his book Mc Carth'y bar
Jim adopting a similar pose
Playing Uno
On Friday we went to Kilmakillogue Harbour for lunch in Helen's Bar - very nice. Then we made our way via different routes to Gougane Barra where we had a lovely walk. Jim and I went home to get the pies cooked for dinner. The others walked more.
The River Lee near its source.
I had gone to The Chef's Table in Castletownbere to get pies - a Moroccan lamb pie and a beef and Guinness pie. They were absolutely delicious. It would be great to be able to get them here.
Carol, Stephen and I took an easy day resting and reading on Saturday and Jim, Brian and Mairead went to Lady Bantry's Loo - actually Lookout but part of the sign was gone. It is in Glengarriff Nature Reserve. On Saturday evening we had a booking for 7.30 in O'Neill's Bar and Restaurant in Allihies. When we got to Allihies it was almost impossible to get parked as the Michael Dwyer festival was on. The pub was packed but we managed to get a seat. The menu did not look very promising so much so that I asked if it was the restaurant menu. It was! But the food was good. There was a great Irish music group playing when we left.
Sunday was departure day so clean up day. We got all done in about 2 hours and we sent Brian and his lot off in his car and off we went to Tipperary to visit Sinead and family as had been agreed.
We were really fortunate with the weather during our stay in Beara so we were seeing the area at its best. The weather broke at the weekend and when we were leaving the harbour was totally misted over making it impossible to see the beautiful scenery.
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