San Galgano and Bagni di Petriolo

Today, Wednesday 16th October, we concentrated on things to be seen in the reasonably local area. It would have been local if Nuvi hadn’t a mind of her own and sent us on several wild goose chases! First stop was San Galgano Abbey. The Abbey is in Gothic style and was built between 1218 and 1288 by the Cistercian monks. It’s the first gothic church built in Tuscany. It was built here because the Cistercian monks used to build their monasteries close to rivers - in this case the Merse - where woods. Marshlands and plains could be cultivated, and along important thoroughfares - in this case Maremma. Some important men formed the monastic community of San Galgano but first the famine of 1329 and then the plague of 1348 hit the community badly. Afterwards the Abbey lands were devastated by mercenary bandits and at the end of the 15th century the monks moved to Siena. In 1786, lightning struck the bell tower which collapsed onto the roof of the Abbey. The church was deconsecrated in 1789.

A sort of grotto. The Virgin has lots of rosary beads around her neck - obviously as petitions.

From the San Galgano Abbey it is a 10 minute walk uphill over rough ground to the Hermitage of Monte Siepi. The Chapel has a round base and was built between 1181 and 1185 on the hill where San Galgano (1148-1181) had retired to live as a hermit. At the centre of the Chapel there’s the rock in which Galgano, who was a knight from Chiusdino, embedded his own sword as a symbol of peace, of giving up arms and beginning a new life in faith. In the 14th century a rectangular Chapel was added and later frescoed by the Sienese painter Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

The sword in the stone.

According to tradition these are the bones of one of three “envious men” who tried to remove the sword from the stone while Galgano was absent. His arms were later torn off by a wolf, friend of San Galgano. During scientific investigations in 2001 using carbon 14 method the remains have been dated to the 12th century contemporary with San Galgano so the story could be true!

Another “local” attraction is the Bagni di Petriolo but Nuvi did not consider it local and sent us miles out of our way. But we persisted and finally arrived at our destination an area of natural hot springs (one of many in this area it seems). Our arrival was signalled by the distinct sulphurous aroma. Neither of us had any intention to take to the waters but were satisfied with a view and some photos.

Our return to Chiusdino, a few kilometres from Montieri was much longer than expected as Nuvi sent us on a more than circuitous route almost causing us to have to go hungry. We were lucky to reach our chosen trattoria by 2.30 and were refused a choice of Primi Piatti because we were so late! However an antipasto and a secondi piatti sufficed. We have a few more “local” trips to make but are grounding Nuvi and resurrecting the map!

Grosseto and beyond

Aware that we were well into our last week in Montieri, we had to get internet access to book hotels for our trip through northwest Italy and France. So off to Follonica again where we got all sorted out. It was still forenoon so we headed for Grosseto where I had hoped to find some decent pasta and salame shops. By the time we got there it was lunchtime and, as Grosseto is not a touristy town, all shops were closed until 3.30 at the earliest. We keep forgetting the Italian habit of having a long lunch and a siesta.

A modern church on the outskirts of Grosseto

The walls of Grosseto. We parked in a multi-storey carpark just at the walls not realising that there was lots of parking to be had. However, it was a new experience as it had a registration plate recognition system. We were a bit apprehensive but it all worked perfectly - a few hours for 1.50 euro.

The Duomo with its pink and white marble façade.

San Francesco Church

We were not willing to waste time waiting on the shops to open so made another attempt to get to the Maremma Park. There are two entry points into the park, one at Talamone and the other at Alberese. As we had been at Alberese the last time we headed for Talamone on the southern tip. It is a fishing village dominated by the mighty Rocca, erected by the Sienese in the 15th century. 

Canons in the walls of Talamone

Views up from the harbour.

Monte Argentario where we had been a few days ago.

We could not see the entrance to the park anywhere so went to Alberese where we found it - but it was closed! On our trip we could see that a lot of the land had been reclaimed. However, we did not see any “butteri”, the local version of cowboys, nor did we see any of the Maremma cattle (long-horned) that are still bred there, nor any wild local breed of horses. A disappointment!

We had planned Florence for Monday as the weather conditions seemed to be best this week. Of course we had not realised that most of the museums and art galleries were closed on a Monday. However, we only had one day and it took us all our time to see as many of the sights as we could. We started early taking the twisty road that heads from Montieri to Siena. The piercingly blinding early morning sun and patches of thick fog were a challenge on such roads and it took all Jim’s skills to keep us from going off the side of the road and hurtling downhill. We arrived safely thank Jim and following Nuvi’s directions were almost embarking on taking routes that were restricted only allowing authorised vehicles. Any idiot would have known that a car with an Irish registration was unlikely to be authorised! Our route then became a challenge to Nuvi as we consistently refused to take the restricted roads. She was becoming addled with recalculating and at one stage could only manage “Please drive to highlighted route”. There was no highlighted route! Fortunately we knew we were heading for the parking at the station in Piazza Stazione and at intervals there were signs indicating the way. Nuvi showed no gratitude at all but continued recalculating in exasperation. I am certain I heard a sigh of relief as we entered the carpark!

As in all big cities of our adventures, first stop is Tourist Office (just across from the station) and next is the hop on hop off bus. It was excellent timing and we were ensconced upstairs in the open top bus within 5 minutes. As in Trieste, we were less than enamoured with the tour but I did learn why I had been finding Italian bread rather bland - there is no salt in it! The bus skirted the outside of the main sights in Florence and brought us up to Fiesole. It was chilly to start with and the wind was ensuring that it would be a really bad hair day. It became almost icy as we made our way to the top of the hill where Fiesole is situated. This was the first day where we sought our coats for warmth rather than as protection from rain. They soon became necessary for rain too just as we reached Fiesole. Fortunately a café provided shelter and a welcome cup of coffee. We didn’t visit the Roman theatre on the Fiesole archaeological site.

A selection of the photos taken from the bus.


Right - Ponte D. Vittoria in the distance

 The south gate through which Nuvi insisted we should go this morning. We knew better!

Piazzale Michelangelo with a replica of the statue of David. Jim tells me that on his grand tour during his youth he stayed in a campsite just below this.

Fiesole up on the hill shrouded in mist which was, in fact, rain!

On the way down we stayed downstairs because of the rain and a good thing too as I noticed water flowing down the stairs of the bus. Jim’s photos are rainspattered.

By the time we reached the final stop the rain had ceased and we were able to tour the city in comfort but still coated for the cold. My first view of the Duomo - Basilica Santa Maria del Fiore - reminded me that I had told Jim I didn’t mind if we didn’t go to Florence! I would certainly not have wanted to miss this beautiful building. It dominates the city with its enormous dome and my words could never describe its striking façade.

The bronze doors are a kind of large scale illustrated bible. There was a huge queue to get into the Duomo and the Baptistery - I’m not a great queue person. We got in later though but it is not as impressive as outside.

The campanile was designed by Giotto. Unfortunately, during this trip I have not been able to climb towers or campaniles because of my foot.

Not a very good photo of the Pieta.

The great cupola is decorated with a fresco of the Last Judgement by Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari (1572-1579) The statues are probably by famous sculptors but I couldn’t see evidence of that.

We had our lunch in Piazza della Republica 

Jim got a finger wagged at him for taking photos in Orsanmichele which was originally a grain market but was turned into a church. The people who worked here were obviously chosen for their forbidding demeanour for everyone bore a scowl and had a finger permanently ready to wag at offenders!

The Piazza della Signoria is very impressive - an outdoor sculpture gallery. The statues, some copies, commemorate major events in the city’s history.

Palazzo Vecchio

The Neptune Fountain. Ammannati’s Mannerist Fountain (1575) of the Roman sea god surrounded by water nymphs commemorates naval victories.

Grand Duke Cosimo 1. Giambologna’s equestrian statue (1595) celebrates the man who subjugated all Tuscany under his military rule.

The statue of David. The original of Michelangel’s was moved from its initial location in the Piazza della Signoria into the Accademia in 1873 to protect it from weather and pollution.

Most of these are in the Loggia dei Lanzi (1382) named after Cosimo 1’s bodyguards, the Lancers. It is also known as the Loggia di Orcagna, after the architect.

Perseus. Cellini’s bronze statue (1554) of Perseus holding Medus’a head was meant to warn Cisimo 1’s enemies of their probable fate. The original of the base it rests on is in the Bargello.

The Rape of the Sabine Women (1583). The writhing figures in Giambologna’s famous statue were carved from a single block of flawed marble. (Isn’t it great to have guide books to tell you all these things!)

The Marzocco is a copy. The original of Donatello’s heraldic lion is in the Bargello.

Just down from the Palazzo Vecchio there were other “statues”:

En route to the Arno to see the Ponte Vecchio.

The Ponte Vecchio is the oldest and most famous bridge in Florence. It was built in 1345 by Neri di Fioravente on a previous structure first mentioned in 996. It was also the only bridge in Florence not to be destroyed when the German army retreated in August 1944. It is built on three arches and lined with mainly jewellery shops obviously horrendously expensive. Prices did not appear beside the items in most of the shops. 

92789283, 9284 - views from the Ponte Vecchio

Having crossed the bridge we continued to the Palazzo Pitti in the south of the city. Seemingly this was where people who did not have sufficient wealth to build a palazzo lived. That stigma existed until the Medici Grand Dukes moved there in 1550. The Palazzo Pitti became the base from which Tuscany was ruled for the next 300 years. 

Today this area is mainly quiet and full of artisan workshops and antique shops. The Boboli Gardens was built as the private garden to the Palazzo Pitti. I dearly wanted to see them but we were running short of time as Jim wanted to get home before dark. It is full of classical sculptures which would have been lovely to see.

The exit from the Boboli Gardens as we sneaked a peek and braved the wrath of an attendant who wagged her finger menacingly at us. I wonder do Florentians/Florentines (they’re a biscuit, like Garibaldi) take courses in finger-wagging because they are very good at it!

Santa Croce Basilica is a wonderful Gothic Church which contains the tombs of many famous Florentines.

Dante

Frescos in the Santa Croce Piazza.

Pinocchio is very important in this area because the man who wrote the story of Pinocchio was born in Florence about 200 years ago.

Jim finally captured 2 police on duty - I mean on camera!

San Lorenzo

And finally - an Irish pub!