The Ossau Valley, le petit train d'Artouste, the Col d'Aubisque etc.

Having checked the weather forecast last night, I was shocked to discover that we were enveloped in fog this morning. However within 30 minutes the fog was clearing and we wasted no time but got on the road for the Ossau Valley and the Artouste tourist train.

These were the views from our balcony this morning as the fog started to lift

With Nuvi in charge, and us arguing with her, we ended up in dense fog which then cleared to brilliant and blinding sunshine as we manoeuvred the twisty roads leading from Eysus to Arudy. From Arudy to Laruns the road was better and the valley was much broader than the Aspe Valley with towering mountains on either side. At Laruns we started our climb to Artouste Fabreges up hairpin bends on narrow roads with far too many trucks for my liking coming in the opposite direction and barely slowing to pass us. I found it best to close my eyes and hope for the best. Jim's eyes must have been open as we negotiated it all unscathed. An added difficulty was that the roads were being tarred and there were further complications as cows (Blondes d'Aquitaine - Matthew would be very impressed!) just wandered about on the road oblivious to the traffic.

Fabreges is the last village on this route before Spain.There is an artificial lake there filled from the opening of the dam at Artouste. It is well set up for tourists both summer and winter. In summer I expect the place is crowded with tourists getting the cable car up the mountain with its fantastic panorama of the Pic du Midi to take the little train or to hike. In winter, skiing and winter sports. We bought our Billets de Decouverte (unfortunately seniors in this case are 70+ so couldn't convince them that we were eligible!) which includes the cablecar, the train to access Lac d'Artouste and the train back again and cablecar back down.

I think I am getting too old for scary things and hanging in a large bubble in mid air is no longer my idea of fun. However, I settled down, placing my trust in the fragile looking arm of the bubble that hung onto the cable, and arrived above only slightly shaken.

During our cup of coffee on top our peace was invaded by a party of German seniors who had obviously reached the requisite age for a discount. It seems they were scheduled for the same train as us.

The train journey on the open two-person carriages began and ended in a rather long tunnel reminiscent of ghost trains. It was pitch black except for intermittent lights on the side. The tunnel was very narrow and I was expecting ghostly fingers to grab my arm or spectral visages to come looming in our direction. I have to admit to emitting a shriek of fear as a large drop of water (not blood!) fell on the back of my neck! Fortunately it was too dark for others to see my blush of embarrassment. We emerged to the following peaks and made our 55 minute journey on the narrow track along the side of the mountain.

 

This is one of the trains coming towards us as we waited to get back on the track

When we were in the Aspe Valley I had noticed a ruddy colour on the slopes of the mountains. It places it look as if it was rock but in places it was clear that it was vegetation. Today we could see it up close and discovered it was the autumnal colours of wild blueberries. It was very pretty, sometimes bright red and at others an orange colour. Interestingly there was also purple heather of the kind purpled the slopes in the Highlands of Scotland when we were there in August. However, it was eclipsed by the redness of the wild blueberry plant.

We had been informed that we might see marmots (posing like superstars!), birds of prey, possibly a bear and Pyrenean chamois. We saw one marmot high-tailing it at the approach of the train - obviously not a superstar! We also saw a few birds of prey and one large silver bird that turned out to be a plane! There was a helicopter flying in regularly carrying what looked like building materials. 

On arrival at the terminal for Lac d'Artouste we discovered that the walk to the lake involved an uphill climb that for me resembled too clearly mountaineering and I chickened out after an ascent of about 25 metres as I found my head getting light and my unbalanced self taking over! With help from Jim I returned to the station and we took the return trip on the train. We had been warned to take warm clothes but it was glorious weather with a cooler breeze on the return. As the cablecar took off into the air for our descent I again emitted a shriek fearing that this was the end. However the bubble held on and we returned safely to terra firma.

We then had to negotiate the twisty roads back to Laruns, again made difficult by road works and line-painting but we wanted to get up close to Griffon Vultures at La Falaise des Vautours. However, it was closed. We saw the cliff with large birds that we assumed were vultures circling above.

We had no option now but attempt the pass between Laruns and Argeles-Gazost which is described in Lonely Planet's France's Best Trips as one of of the "most breathtaking roads switchbacking over the lofty Col d'Aubisque". Switchback it did and lofty it was and breathtaking too. But, the fog rolled in and we were deprived most of the time of view!

When we reached the Col d'Aubisque (1709m above sea level, the closest to Heaven we are likely to get!) we could see little, only the Auberge, but the air was filled with the constant tinkling of bells (Heaven?) from the bells around the necks of the cows and the horses. However I did get a chance to view my choice of bicycles fore the Tour de France!

Back on the road and more cows resentful of our presence on their thoroughfare!

We continued on to the Col du Soulor where the fog lifted slightly to reveal some nice views.

We finally descended to Argeles-Gazost where the town was bedecked in pink umbrellas hung like bunting for a gay pride day we assume. Sorry no photo but it was very pretty!

Our final stop of the day was Lourdes where we stopped to get some grot (not grotto!) for our very irreverent Carol.