Wednesday, October 1, 2014

The Aspe Valley and a few hours in Pau

Morning dawned brightly to our delight and we set off to do the Aspe Valley and enjoy the majesty of the Pyrenees. This is  the westernmost of the Pyrenean valleys and along the way there are some picturesque villages. The photos do not do justice to the scenery.





















We took a detour to Lescun, a tiny hamlet perched over 5km above the valley, overlooking the Pic d'Anie. The scenery there is spectacular - the drive hair-raising. The return was even more interesting as we got lost in the little town and found ourselves negotiating streets just about the width of the car with the mirrors folded! Nuvi saved the day and put us on the correct path for once.



The Cirque de Lescun



















We stopped at Etsaut for a coffee. There were lots of cars but no one was about. We went into what looked like a coffee place because of the tables and chairs outside. Inside was more like a shop. The proprietor said Bonjour and we bonjoured him too. I asked if we could have coffee. He said the cafe was next door (A cote). So we went next door where the same man (unless he has a twin) bonjoured us again and set about making our coffee.





The only bear we have seen so far hiding up the wall!


At the end of the valley we entered the Somport Tunnel which burrows through the Pyrenees for 8 km to emerge in Spain. The views on the other side were much less spectacular until we turned to go back and discovered it is much more scenic on the way to France. Back through the tunnel and on to the village of Sarrance where the Auberge had been recommended to us. It was a beautiful day and would have been nice to eat outside but the proprieteur said "Dedans" so dedans it was. Here I had my first opportunity to have garbure a local specialty - cabbage and ham soup with lots of other vegetables Sounds awful but was actually quite delicious. Will try making it when I get home.

Sarrance

The view we would have had if we had been dehors not dedans!

The Auberge where the food is very good!



















En route we experienced what is called Transhumance where animals are herded from the higher summer pastures to their winter pastures. This was a huge herd of goats and some sheep. The photo is not great but is evidence!


As we came home this evening, a different way to usual, we noticed that there is a Fete de la Transhumance on Saturday in the square that we passed through. This involves a blessing of the flocks and herds, a big feast and lots of music and dancing. Men are required to wear their berets!

As the day was so good we decided to go to Pau to walk the Boulevard des Pyrenees in the hopes of seeing the Pyrenees from there. They were hiding again behind a thick haze. However the walk was lovely and we took the funiculaire down to the station and back up again - just for the experience! We had a look at the Palais de Beaumont, now the casino, and took a walk along the ramparts of the castle.

Church of St. Martin, Pau

Church of St. Martin and war memorial.

Palais de Beaumont

Funiculaire

Castle in Pau

Gardens along the ramparts

Squash in the jardin potager

Aubergines

Some sort of onions (aliums)

Very colourful chard

 Coat of arms

Poissons rouges - and they were rouges!



Irish pub along the Boulevard des Pyrenees


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