Tuesday, November 5, 2013

San Gimignano

Tuesday morning (October 8) again looked promising so we set off for San Gimignano. It is known as the “city of beautiful towers” and is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Tuscany. Originally there were no fewer than 72 towers - 15 survive. These windowless towers were built to serve both as private fortresses and symbols of their owners’ wealth primarily amassed from their principal trades of saffron and usury. Ice cream shops in San Gimignano have an ice cream flavoured with saffron pistils - of course we had to try it and it is delicious!











































The Duomo is well worth a visit but cameras are not allowed inside. The walls are entirely lined with frescoes that tell stories of the New and Old Testaments painted by illustrious painters of the Sienese School of the XIV century. In one area of the Duomo is the Chapel of Santa Fina, created by three very famous Florentine artists: architect Giuliano da Maiano, sculptor Benedetto da Maiano and painter Domenico Ghirlandaio. It is dedicated to the dearest saint of San Gimignano who, while still a girl, was afflicted by a serious illness which left her bedridden choosing to spend the rest of her days lying on a wooden board. At the moment of her death yellow violas blossomed from the board and the bells of San Gimignano rang out festively without any human hands touching the ropes.




Duomo San Gimignana















As we were on our way to buy the tickets to visit the Basilica there was a street artist doing a puppet act. I was captivated by it and had to follow the whole story about a young girl, a flower and the monster death. Very few people paid much attention but I really enjoyed it.






Opposite the Cathedral was an open courtyard where men seemed to congregate to chat.































The view from San Gimignano over the Tuscan landscape.

We lunched in Locanda San Domenico which was situated in one of the medieval buildings. It had a panoramic garden but the rain was starting. After lunch the rain hadn’t come to much so we wandered some more, until the thunder started in earnest, and got back to the car dry. As I write there is more torrential rain after another lightning display and concurrent sound effects. I am convinced that in all our trips since we retired this is the most sustained bad weather we have had.

Monday, November 4, 2013

Massa Maritime

Monday morning looked lovely with sunshine so we assumed the weather had taken a turn for the better. Massa Maritima is about 20 km from Montieri set in the Colline Metallifere (metal-bearing hills) from which lead, copper and silver ores were mined. It is a pretty town with lots of Romanesque architecture. The Citta Vecchia has a splendid sloping medieval square, overlooked by the buildings of Episcopal and lay powers.












 Off the Piazza are narrow streets.



Sarah had recommended a number of restaurants in Massa Maritima. The only one open at lunchtime was La Tana del Brillo Parlante which is in the Slow Food Guide. It must be the smallest restaurant I’ve ever been in - it could seat 11 maybe 12 at a push. The food was good though I am not totally convinced that the coarse pasta local to the area is entirely to my taste.




Just as we were finishing up we heard the thunder and knew what was to follow - more torrential rain. We hightailed it to the car reaching it as the first heavy drops fell. Earlier we had found a shop which had internet access and tried to access my emails but with no success. The man in charge was helpful but a bit strange so we paid our 1 euro and left. Once the rain started we decided to go to Follonica and look there for internet access. However, the rain refused to ease so we abandoned our quest returning instead to Montieri.

Cala Violina in the Maremma

On Sunday we took to the road again to travel to the Maremma Park in Alberese. En route we took an unpaved road that led to a car park from where we could walk to see Cala Violina, a beautiful bay with sand that crunches musically under your feet. The walk to the bay was about 2km, reasonably flat to start with and then downhill. It wound through a natural forest that seemingly, based on the notices, is full of wildlife - wild boar, foxes, badgers, squirrels, hedgehogs, porcupines, other animals that I don’t know the English of, and lots of birds. We saw a magpie but the only wild boar I saw was Jim! It is a lovely bay and obviously popular with the locals who carried their swimwear and picnic baskets to the beach. We simply admired and took the return, mainly uphill, route. I was quite pleased with myself that I managed without much pain from my foot.






















We finally made it to Alberese but could not find the entrance to the park. The evening ended with more thunder, lightning and rain.

Montieri - Tuscany

On Friday we travelled to Eunan and Sarah’s house in Montieri. The centre of the town is closed to traffic due to works installing thermal heating so we had to find a roundabout way to the house. We got the shutters open, the electricity on and the gas on and I started to unpack. To stock up with food required a journey to Follonica 45 km away. When we returned we discovered that we could not get the gas boiler to provide hot water so a long long distance call was required for Eunan to talk us through the process. It’s great to be in a house with a bit of space - we were beginning to feel a bit claustrophobic in small apartments.

At about 5am we were woken by the most horrendous thunderstorm with thunder and lightning almost simultaneous. The rain was torrential. It continued in full fury for a full hour then eased in intensity during the morning. We were beginning to think we would be housebound for all of Saturday but managed a trip to Follonica and a brief tour.





A few hours in Bologna

Early Thursday morning we did the final clearance and waited for Gloria and Piero to arrive. We had a brief conversation and were then on the road for Bologna where we had arranged to meet Glesni for a meal. There was a festival on in Bologna and it was practically impossible to find parking. The hotel had parking for a surcharge but unfortunately the car park was full leaving us in a position of not being able to put the car anywhere in order to check in. We circled the area several times and then found a parking garage - not an underground carpark with the usual mechanised system. This was simply a big garage which would hold about 20 cars. We turned in and the man in charge allowed us to park in a no parking area. He took our keys and gave us a docket. It was just a short walk to the hotel where checking in took almost half an hour! We asked about parking and he said there would possibly, but not definitely, be parking after the conference in the hotel was over - around 7pm. That didn’t sound too promising to us so back we went to the garage to negotiate overnight parking which we managed despite language difficulties and at a cost of 20 euro - in the hotel the cost would have been 25 euro!

We were in Bologna early enough to be able to see some of the sights before meeting Glesni.



The outer side of one of Bologna’s gates which is designed to be forbidding to keep enemies out.

The walls


The inside of the gate which is more friendly


























Views of Piazza Maggiore. The Basilica di San Petronio is being renovated. The festival in his honour was on while we were there.



 The fountain of Neptune









The two towers 


















Garibaldi again!