Farmers' Saturday market; Museum of Indian Arts and Culture; Blue Corn Cafe; openair voncert in the Plaxa.

The Santa Fe  Farmers' Market takes place on a Saturday all year  round and on a Tuesday from May to  September.  The Saturday market is the bigger of the two and we made our way to its location at Paseo de Peralta. It is great! Fresh local seasonal products are beautifully displayed. It is chile season so a great emphasis was on the many varieties of chile and the smell of roasting chiles filled the air. And of course there are tastings at every stall. I was sorry  I had had my breakfast.

Craft brewery just beside the market sells these beers.

Second Street Brewery imposes its own restrictions! Jim did not even sample one - it was just around 10.30am so on the early side.





Before  we left the market we sampled a fruit, new to us, jujubes, also known as red date or chinese date. Both of us really like them. They are sold fresh in season and dried. When we were in Montieri in Italy I tried a fruit that was growing in the garden of Sarah and Eunan's house. I didn't know what it was but could only describe it as some kind of date. The jujubes are like that only bigger.

The market is in the Railyard district of Santa Fe. This is also kmown as the Guadaloupe District. It has long been the focul point of transportation  and is currently a hub of entertainment,  shopping, food and events. We took a little walk along the railway beckoned by the sound of interesting music to discover a marimba group and right beside that a juice bar where we decided we would forego our morning coffee for a healthy juice.

Jim had a watermelon and lemonade juice that was very refreshing. I had a carrot, apple and ginger that was a bit heavy  but better when the ice had melted. The girl was very friendly and lively and shouted  "marimba " every time the group finished an item. This turned into mutual appreciation as they urged onlookers to buy some juice.

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The group is called Polyphony Marimba and are excellent. They play African-style xylophones built by their band leader Peter Swing. The band consists of a lead soprano marimba, which conducts the band and a responding soprano, a  alto, 2 tenors, a baritone, bass and gourd shakers called 'hosho', which keeps the beat, a,ong with the congas. The members of the band rotate parts. It is really musical and lively. I would love to learn. There are weekly classes but I'm sure 2 to 3 lessons would not be enough.

Jim was not as enthralled by the music as I  was so he took a walk to the railway station to trainspot.

When Jim finally prised me away from the music we took a brief walk in the area, which, like everywhere in Santa Fe  abounds with art and sculpture.

Jim has always  been obsessed with the road runner and coyote cartoons so tsking abphoto of this from every angle was imperative.

In the afternoon  we decided  to  do one of the 4 museums in Santa Fe. This involved going to Museum Hill which required a bus. We thought the free shuttle went there but the volunteer in the Tourist Info booth said no and directed us to a city bus. It cost us seniors a dollar each. We inquired about a pass that would include all of the museums and got one each at 25 dollars. It covers 15 museums in New Mexico so would be a good saving as the entrance to one museum is 9 $ a head. We have since disvovered that most of the 15 museums are rather far away. Not to worry - we have saved some money if we go to the 4 here in Santa Fe.

TheMuseum of Indian Arts and Culture  is dedicated to the accurate and culturally sensitive presentation of southwestern Native American cultures and it works closely with the Native communities. It is in a beautiful setting with a backdrop  of  hills and mountains. The open couryard/plaza is full of wonderful sculptures of Indian people.

As it was afternoon we knew we would not be able to see all of the museum so we concentrated on the Here, Now and Always exhibition. This is a fascinating exhibition that documents the indigenous communities of the southwest and their challenging landscapes. It has over 1000 objects on display accompanied by dialogue, poetry, story and song. It is the result of 8 years of collaboration  between  Native American Elders, artists, scholars, teachers, writers and museum professionals.  Of course we could not take photos.

We then went to the museum's garden to see the outdoor exhibition, Courave and Compassion: Native women sculpting Native women. Fantastic work!

 There were many other sculptures outside aside from those of the women sculptors.

Both of these are by Allan Houser who has a sculpture garden at his art studio which we would like to see.

   

                                 Another 2 by Allan Houser

We plan to return to the museum as the kind man at reception did not stamp our pass as he was aware that we had not sufficient time to see everything.

On leaving the museum we discovered that the free shuttle bus did serve this area do we got on and were aware that the driver was taking a really circuitous route. After about 20 minutes we found ourselves back at the museum! When we asked if he went to the Plaza he said no, the farthest he went was to the Capitol. So off we went again and got  off at the Capitol and made our way from there along the Ols Santa Fe  Trail. En route we passed what is claimed to be the oldest church in the US, San Miguel Mission, a Spanish colonial mission church built around 1610.

We also went into the oldest house which is just up a lane from it. It is now a little museum.

Earlier wben we had been to the Tourist info booth, we had noticed that the plaza was being set up for some kind of an occasion. They told us that it was the 150th anniversary of one of the hospitals  and that there was a  big open air meal with music. The tickets were $150 dollars and, unfortunately for us, sold out!
However, the music could be enjoyed by anyone in the plaza. So we decided to have our first meal out and then avail of the music. We went to the Blue Corn Cafe a d managed to get a seat on the outdoor terrace which, by coinvidence, looks onto the terrace of the Coyote Cafe where we had been on our previous visit to Santa Fe.  (I also have the Coyote Cafe cookbook from then). This what we had to eat:

I got my chile sauces on the side, fearing I would find them too spicy. I had a little but they were a bit overpowering for me. Jim is made of sterner stuff obviously! Needless to say we did not manage to clear our plates, not even Jim. It was lovely though, just far too much.  Next time sharing will be the order of the day!


The music had started in the plaza by the time we got back and people came prepared with their own seats as the public benches were all full. I was really fortunate in that I was able to slip into a tiny space on the wall surrounding the war memorial just beside a man with purple sideburns. I was tempted to express my admiration for said sideburns in the hope of gaining a bit more space but refrained for fear Jim might get jealous and do something similar to maintain my affections! The music was good Country music and very enjoyable. Locals, I assumed from male ponytails, and cowboy boots on both male and female, took to the floor (open concrete space) and obviously took the whole thing very seriously. There was as much entertsinment from them as from the music!

 
                          Couldn't figure these two out.

 I don't  think the formal ones were having half as much fun as everyone else  - maybe it ws the  thought of the amount they had spent!

So home to bed after a very full day!

Loretto Line City Tour of Santa Fe

Hop on hop off tours have always been our way to experience a city and then to decide what we want to explore at greater depth. There is no hop on hop on bus as such but there is something better - a free shuttle  service - that we plan to avail of once we have decided where we want to go. So we decided this morning  to take the Loretto Line City Tour of Santa Fe.  The tour trams/trolleys hold 16 and are driven and guided by a very interesting and knowledgeable man (in our case though there may be women for all I know!).

The Loretto Line tour filled quickly and we headed off to a bit of the history of Santa Fe. La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Asis (The Royal Town of the Holy Faith of St. Francis of Assisi), fortunately shortened to Sa ta Fe is the oldest capital city in the US. It is 405 years old and has the highest elevation in the country  at 7,000 feet. It has 360 degree mountain views, 325 days of sunshine and only 20 inches of rain per year. It is the 4th largest city in the state of New Mexico. Santa Fe's nickname is The City Different.

Our tour took us through the  Plaza, along Canyon Road and on part of the old Santa Fe trail. Jim was careful to keep arms and legs inside the trolley as he took some photos.

This is the Masonic Scottish Rite Temple described by the guide as a "fraternal organisation

All these are sculptures or pieces of art along the route of the tour.

This is a traditional adobe house that is being maintained in the traditional way by mixing   mud and straw. Most modern day adobe houses are concrete made to look like adobe.

The guide gave us a brief respite to stretch our legs and to admire a monument that celebrates a significant part of New Mexican history. His instructions. to exit the trolley at the right and backwards because the step is very high and could cause injury, fell on Jim's deaf ears - well not entirely, he did exit at the right but then he was seated a the right! Everyone else managed to heed the instructions - even a 6 year old boy - and descended with dignity. Jim's ascent was followed by and ungainly and uncontrolled downward run!

"Journey's End" is a lifesize bronze sculpture located at the entrance to Museum Hill on the Santa Fe  trail where, seemingly there are wagon wheel ruts still visible nearby (didn't  see them). The sculpture depicts a covered wagon pulled by 6 mules  and bogged down travelling through a pass on its way to the Santa Fe Plaza. It features a muleskinner helping a mule that has stumbled and an outrider looking back to see if he can help. A boy and his dog are running from Santa Fe  to  greet the wagon. An American Indian woman is observing the scene from a distance. This  monument represents the traders who came with goods to sell in the Plaza.

The guide / driver explained how history plays a major role in Santa  Fe's current persona. It is a unique blend of Native American, Spanish  and Anglo cultures which influences everything from architecture to art and jewellery to cuisine. Santa Fe's history  dates back to around 10,000 BC when nomadic Paleo-Indians arrived in the  region. Their descendants were the architects of adobe structures and the Pueblo style evident in Santa Fe. Spanish explorers in search of gold arrived in the mid 16th century and settled  here establishing Santa Fe  as the capital of Nueva Mexico. Anglo settlers began making their way  into the Santa Fe region around 1750 with thousands more pouring in following the creation of the Santa Fe Trail. In 1824 the Spanish province of Nuevo Mexico  became the Territory of New Mexico under Mexico. But in 1846 the United States claimed possession of New Mexico. The 3 main styles of architecture are Pueblo (adobe - rounded corners), Territorial (like adobe but with sharp-cornered walls) and  Northern New Mexico  (pitched roofs instead of flat ).

Canyon Road is a mile-long road where historic adobe homes are now galleries specialising in Western, Native American and contemporary art. Some of Jim's photos are from there but we plan to devote a bit of time exploring there.

The pine tree that  produces  pinon (pine nuts) has always been  very important  to  Santa Fe.

At the end if the tour we got similar instructions to earlier - exit at the right and backwards. Did Jim? Not a chance!

After the tour we took a trip to the  Cathedral and to the Loretto Chapel. The  Cathedral Basilica of St.Francis of Assisi  was built after an older church built in 1626 was destroyed in the 1680 Pueblo Revolt. In contrast to the surrounding adobe structures it was built in the Romanesque  style. Due to lack of funds the left tower is taller than the right tower.
                                                               

This is a staue to the  first Native American woman to be  made a saint - Kateri Tetakwitha known as "Lily of the Mohawks".

The door into the Cathedral.

The water feature in the Cathedral - presumably the baptismal font. Maybe Catholics are into total immersion here!

                                           St. Francis of Assisi

We paid a visit to the Loretto Chapel which is famous for its so called miraculous staircase. When the Loretto  Chapel  was finished in 1878 there was no way to access the choir loft which was 22 feet above . Carpenters  maintained that the only possible way was by ladder as the Chapel was too small for a staircase. Legend says that the Loretto sisters made a novena to St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. On the final day of the novena a man with a toolbox and a donkey arrived at the Chapel looking for work. Months later he had completed a  elegant circular staircase and had disappeared without being paid. The  nuns searched for the carpenter in vain and could only conclude that the carpenter had been St. Joseph himself. The  staircase has 2 360 degree turns and no visible means of support. Its design still perplexes experts today.

The Loretto  Chapel was built along the lines of the Sainte Chapelle in Paris.

As is the norm everywhere, you can't leave without viditing the gift shop. The Loretto Chapel  gift shop has a section dedicated to Christmas.

Below are some more examples of art seen as we made our way back to the car.

And finally - Jim sees part of route 66!

Arriving in Santa Fe

Following a sleepless night for me and an unsettled one for Jim, possibly because we were past our sleep having been travellong in excess of 25 hours, we availed of an adequate continental breakfast, and became acquainted with our exchange car, a Honda Fit, Elaine having left the keys at reception the night before. We then took Interstate 25 from Albuquerque to Santa Fe. It is a very  scenic route with first the Sandia mountains in view - lovely peaks with a band of conifers around their middle - and then, as we got closer to Santa Fe,  the Sangre de Cristo mountains which, in places, with the green shrubs/trees growing from orange soil, gave the appearance of designer stubble. The landscape of hillocks made us expect at any minute John Wayne on horseback to canter into sight or a band of Indians lining the hillside protecting their terrain. Jim was in his element! Nuvi brought us to Elaine's abode, an adobe style two story house, without any difficulty and we entered our new home. It was great to arrive so early in the day, around 11.30 am, as we could then get the shopping done, unpack and start planning how we would occupy our days.

The supermarket, Albertsons, a short drive away, is big and will cater for all our needs. Back home and we had just eaten lunch when the doorbell rang and our next  door neighbour, Peggy, was calling to welcome us and provide us with a map and some suggestions  as to what we should see and do during our visit. She is a member of a Bienvenidos group who man a tourist info booth in the Plaza in Santa Fe so she is ideally suited to give us advice. We took her advice  and headed to the Plaza to see around and visit the info booth. The Plaza looked much as we remember it from our last visit and the traders were under the portal of the Palace of the  Governors selling their handmade jewellery to the public. We went down one of the streets leading on to the Plaza to see if the Original Trading Post that fascinated us last time was still there and it was.

Jim took a few photos  just to get the flavour of the place.

Burros (donkeys) abounded in Santa Fe in the past and were used to haul firewood from the surrounding wooded areas. Seemingly they were patience personified. A statue near Burro Alley is a symbol of the appreciation Santa Feans have for the donkey.

Our first sight of strings of chiles (that's how chilli is spelled here) drying. It is chile harvest time and ristras (strings of chiles) are hung outside every door to protect people from evil spirits (and bland food!)

This is an example of the sculptures that can be seen outside the huge number of art galleries and shops. Santa Fe  is synonymous with art as you will see wnen Jim and I take a trip up Canyon Road.

Wild West adventure begins

Our long-awaited trip to fulfil a number of points on our wish list has finally  begun. Having visited Santa Fe once (during Carol's year working in Juarez, Mexico) Jim had a yearning to return to New Mexico. He also wanted to do Route 66. (Imagine Jim on a motorbike and me in a sidecar! I think there would be definite attempts on Jim's part to unhitch the sidecar and continue on his journey uncoupled!) I  wanted to see the Grand Canyon to compare it to the Copper  Canyon in Mexico which is absolutely  mind-blowing. Over 3 years I made several attempts to get consecutive home exchanges that would facilitate our wants. A tentative arrangement in 2013 fell through and there were no bites in 2014. Finally we had to compromise. Jim would have to make do with doing parts of Route 66,  not on a Harley but in a car with me navigating, and I  would have to content myself that a home exchange in Sedona or even Flagstaff was not going to happen. So we have settled on around 3 weeks in Santa Fe and a similar amount of time in Tucson. Both Santa Fe and Tucson are a long way from the Grand Canyon (in excess of 7 hours ) so we had to come up with a solution to see it without spending a fortune. (Jim frets when he hears my expansive plans and makes many visits to his online banking account, contorts his face alarmingly, scratches his head and despairs!) I finally convinced him that renting a car for 5 days is no more expensive than for 2 days (we had need of a car to get from the first exchange in Santa Fe to the second outside Tucson) and somehow the mathematical genius did not calculate the overnight stays necessitated by doing a road trip!  So road trip it is 😀. We would leave Santa Fe a few days earlier than planned,  pick up our car at Santa Fe airport and make a trip that includes Mesa Verde, Monument  Valley  and  the  Grand  Canyon  and finally make our way to our home exchange location near Tucson.

On the day before leaving for our overnight in Dublin prior to our flight to Chicago I did something strange to my leg resulting in excruciating pain and inability to put my foot to the ground. I knew that even with some improvement the following day I would not be able to negotiate the long walking distances at any of the airports so I  phoned Trailfinders to organise wheelchair assistance. American Airlines had a clever way of deterring one from availing of a wheelchair but they didn't succeed. They required my weight which I  reluctantly and apologetically whispered down the phone. On arrival at check in the following morning i was ushered to the holding pen until a sturdy enough wheelchair was found to transport me to my gate. A lovely woman became my driver and, with Jim trotting alongside, I was transported through security, pre-clearance where she kindly dictated my answers for the blue card and then through US security. Even in the wheelchair passing through  security was not smooth - of course the bleeper sounded as I  went through and so I  had to be checked. I was spared the indignity suffered on my German trip, where my waistline had been investigated, possibly because I was seated and had indicated the source of my pain. At the US security I was asked to remove my shoes but , from my position in the wheelchair,  I  was unable to reach my left foot without pain. My wheelchair angel's request that I be allowed to keep them on was granted and the security man satisfied himself by running his scanner along my shoes. We arrived at the relevant gate for our flight to Chicago with loads of time to spare and I  couldn't help thinking that being injured when having to take a trip to the US is quite a good thing!

When we arrived in Chicago an airport cart (motorised open top little bus thing) was waiting for me and 3 others in a similar predicament and, with Jim on board also, we were driven to our respective transfer gates. Again it was in a fraction of the time it would have taken us to figure out where we were supposed to go and then to walk there! There followed 7 hours wait for our next flight to Albuquerque but O'Hare in Chicago is a great spot with lots of restaurants and even a spa. In Albuquerque a young man was the wheelchair angel but he had 2 of us to transport at the same time. This he did speedily and efficiently sometimes pushing one and pulling the other and giving a little spin every so often so that I felt that I was on one of the rides at a theme park. He had us on and off lifts in a flash. Jim galloped along beside us but used the escalators to get down to the luggage reclaim area where he was reunited both with our luggage and with me. A quick call to our hotel and the shuttle was on its way and we were settled in our bedroom within a half hour of getting off the  plane. A bit of a wnirlwind journey I think!