Our departure date was November 2 (8.45 pm ) from Phoenix International Airport. We had arranged with our exchangers that we would stay in the same motel in order to facilitate the return of the car and keys. I was determined that not a minute was to be wasted so we bade farewell to Saddlebank, Tucson very early on Sunday morning and set off for the Apache Trail Scenic Byway. This is one of the most scenic drives near Phoenix. The Trail links Apache Junction with Globe via the Theodore Roosevelt Lake through the Superstion Mountains and Tonto National Forest. We made our way to Florence and Florence Junction and then did a circular route (missing out on Globe), a total of 120 miles, in a clockwise direction ending up at out motel in Tempe. Our first views of the Superstition Mountains made me wonder how they could be the most photographed landmark of Arizona, aside from the Grand Canyon, but it wasn't long till I could see why.
After about 4 miles on the trail we made our way up Mining Camp Road to the Mining Camp Restaurant which was established in 1961. It is in the most beautiful location in Superstition Mountains but was not open ( it was only 9am).
Our next stop was Goldfield Ghost Town. Back in the 1890s Goldfield was a thriving mining town with 3 saloons, a boarding house, a general store, a blacksmith. shop. brewery, meat market and a school house. However. the vein faulted, the grade of ore dropped and the town died a slow painful death. There were several unsuccessful attempts to reopen the mines and the town was revived a bit between 1910 and 1926. This rebirth was brief and the town died again in 1926. Then, in 1966, a ghost town, mining and treasure-hunting enthusiast, Bob Schoose, and his wife decided to rebuild the town which is now full of authentic-looking buildings and a real tourist trap. It was early Sunday morning so there were few about and the town seemed to be lazily waking up when we arrived for a coffee and a stroll in an 1893 Arizona mining town environment.
We sat out on the balcony of the saloon drinking our coffee in the brightness of the early morning sun.
Deliberate misspelling? Couldn't get the significance!
The train ride through the Superstition Mountains that we did not take.
There would be plenty of loud talk and profanity if I was allowed only 2 visits to the outhouse per day!
Back to the Apache Trail and we pass the entrance to the Lost Dutchman State Park. There are various stories and legends associated with the Lost Dutchman Mine which was allegedly a tremendously rich goldmine worked by a lone prospector but its location was never revealed before his death and therefore lost.
Lost Dutchman State Park was established in 1967 because of the popularity of the Superstition Mountains. Seemingly there are miles of hiking trails here but I didn't dare to suggest that we stop and do one as the drive would take most of the day. Immediately after this we enter Tonto National Park and, for the duration of the next 40 or so miles, Billboards and advertising are forbidden.
We gradually catch sight of Canyon Lake, one of 4 formed by damming the Salt River. It is a surprise to see such a large body of water in the middle of the desert. the land around the lake has distorted rock, steep cliffs and twisting ravines.
Beautiful!
About 2 miles on is the famous stage stop of Tortilla Flat established in 1904. This is a good spot for a snack or lunch but we were only in need of a "rest" which has become Jim's euphemism for a toilet stop based on the American name "restrooms". However, having a "rest" was an opportunity to get a flavour of The Superstition Saloon and Restaurant. There were real saddles for stools at the bar and the Ladies' Restroom speaks for itself! In all, a very entertaining place to visit!
The wallpaper is from real dollar bills from visitors from all over the world!
Shortly after leaving Tortilla Flat the paved road ends and we are warned that the road is unpaved for the next 22 miles.
Here we are on Fish Creek Hill where, since 1906 cars have been tested due to its steep gradient. It is steep and ... scary! It's even more scary for the driver, I suspect but I was too busy enjoying that I neglected to ask! Today professional photographers and filmmakers use this hill for their work.
This is one of the many single lane bridges that we passed over. Thankfully we did not meet any oncoming traffic as we negotiated this treacherous road!
This is Apache Lake
Roosevelt Lake, the largest lake totally within the boundaries of Arizona.
Roosevelt Dam was once the world's largest masonry constructed dam.
Bridge over Roosevelt Dam.
Just up the road from here is Tonto National Monument. We turned in for a quick visit and to read some information on the Salado Indians. Here there are the ruins of 2 cliff dwellings established by the Salado Indians around 1300AD.
Tonto National Monument is located high above the Roosevelt Lake and is in a lovely setting.
Back on the road and we made our way back to Apache Junction via Miami and Superior where we stopped for a late lunch before heading to Tempe for our overnight.
While we had a really slow drive of 22 miles on twisty, narrow unpaved road, the Apache Scenic Trail was a really enjoyable drive and would be even more enjoyable with more time to spare and the opportunity to do some walking. But you can only do what you can do!
